From humble beginnings great things can grow. Never has this been more true than from these dried marrowfat peas that have been languishing in the back of the kitchen cupboard for the last couple of years. Why they were even there I don’t know.
Anyway rather than consign them to the bin I thought it would be fun to try and turn them into some posh pea shoots…the sort of thing a posh chef might adorn a risotto with. So, to the potting shed it was and into a shallow tray they went.
As well as looking stunning as a garnish on things like risotto or pasta, these peas shoots are really tasty added to a green salad.
Given a light trim they are a great little cut and come again crop to keep on the kitchen windowsill. I’ll definitely be planting some more over the coming months to keep our food well garnished!
Well, with the noticeably warmer weather it’s definitely time to get some seeds in the ground. I’ve already got lots going in the greenhouse (more on that later) but have only now got round to getting some seeds in the vegetable patch. First in the ground this year are some Boltard beetroot and some Saxa 2 radish.
As you can see in the bottom photo, last years perpetual spinach and chard are still growing strong and producing plenty of tasty leaves. Also there are even a few leeks that are finally getting anything near thick enough to eat.
I’m not sure why but I have failed the last two years to grow decent leeks, maybe i’m not watering them enough but they never seem to get much thicker than a pencil. The ground they were in was night and light, well dug with plenty of nutrients. I’m undecided if i’ll try again this year or give something else a go.
Back last autumn I decide to plant up some spring bulbs. As well as dotting some around the garden I decided to try some container grown bulbs out. Not content with just one type of bulb i decided to up that ante and plant 3 different types in the same pot.
The aim was to end up with a couple of larger pots that produce a constant burst of colour right though spring. I simply planted the larger bulbs near the bottom and the smaller near the top of the container. In this case it was daffodils at the bottom, then tulips, then crocuses.
Well so far so good. As you can see the crocuses are in full bloom and being complemented well by the emerging foliage of the daffs and tulips. Hopefully these little pots will have plenty more colour left in them for a few more weeks.
My understanding is that once bulbs in containers have done their things it’s best to plant them out in the garden for subsequent years rather than try to preserve the bulbs and repot next year. I’ll leave them in the pots for a few weeks after flowering so the energy goes into the bulbs before planting the bulbs out in the garden.
I’ll definitely be growing bulbs in containers next year. Simply plant the bulbs up in Autumn and leave them outside all winter and you’ve got a burst of early spring colour ready to happen.
A few weeks ago I posted about our rather unhappy bougainvillea. After suffering from multiple aphid infestations and the cold nights in our conservatory it had dropped all of it’s leaves and I feared the worst.
Well as you can see I’m please to report that it is now on the road to recovery. All i did was give it a couple of good sprays to deal with the aphids and move it into our living room which has a much warmer temperatuure over night. It’s been happily sat infront of the patio doors, next to a radiator so it’s been gettign plenty of heat and light.
Fingers crossed she’ll be back to her magnificent best soon now that the worst of the winter is [hopefully] out of the way. It’s always satisfying when you manage to revive a plant that appears to be on deaths door…it’s amazing the difference a few degrees can make.
It didn’t take long. Spring is well and truly here and the garden is suddenly a riot of colour. The daffs, snow drops and crocuses are in full bloom and it seems like winter is a distant memory.
That sais as I write this it is trying to snow outside despite being quite mild this morning. Its the time of year when you need to keep an eye out on the weather forecast for those late frosts and try not to get too carried away and plant too many seeds to early….
Last summer we bought a small bougainvillea from the local garden center. My wife loves these plants and was forever reminding me every time we saw them while away on holiday. In the last couple of years I kept noticing them in garden centers and debated whether they’d survive the winter here i the UK.
After buying it we kept it in our south facing conservatory and it didn’t seem to do too well. After a few weeks it stopped flowering and was looking rather unhappy. After upping the watering considerably and feeding once a week it burst back into flower and kept going all summer right through until about early November.
Recently it has been looking more and more unhappy. Not only has it been infected with aphids (which i’ve sprayed) but it has recently dropped all of it’s leaves. As you can see below it looks more than a little sorry for itself.
Bougainvillea Leaf Drop
I suspect the leaf drop is as a result of the very cold temperatures we’ve been having. Night time temperatures in the conservatory have been falling to about 10 degrees Celsius so I’ve decided to move it back into the living room where the temperatures are a bit warmer.
After doing a bit of research here’s the general advice I’ve found for looking after bougainvillea plants:
They like being pot bound
Don’t feed if overly dry roots, water first
Feed once a week
Give as much sun as possible
Keep in frost free environment during winter
I also read that bougainvilleas can drop their leaves in temperatures under 10 degrees. Hopefully with a little TLC I can revive this plant and get it back to it’s best in the Spring.
After recently choosing and buying a bare root rose for our walled garden I was a bit dismayed when six inches of snow and freezing temperatures arrived a few days after I got the new rose planted in the ground.
When researching how best to plant bare root roses all of the advice I read said not to plant them in frozen ground. As temperatures began to plummet last week (they reached a low of -13 degrees Celsius) I soon began to get worried about the effect of the ground freezing around the roots so soon after I planted it.
One evening I got my thinking cap on and decided I needed to somehow protect the rose from the impending night time frost. This is what I came up with…
Planting a Bare Root Rose in Frozen Ground
The solution I came up with was to place a small plastic cloche over the rose in order to keep the snow and frost off the plants but to also hopefully keep some of the heat in the soil and prevent the root ball from freezing.
Fingers crossed this will have been enough to keep the plant alive and that I got it in place before the roots were frozen into the ground. The soil underneath feels soft still so hopefully I got there just in time.
Christmas cacti are relatively simple to take cuttings from. Simply twist off or cut 2/3 segment pieces of a healthy plant. Pot the cuttings around the edge of a large pot filled with potting compost and sharp sand or vermiculite. 3/4 of the bottom segment should be buried below the compost.
If possible try to take your cutting 1 segment below a V or split. This will mean your new plant already has two stems from which to sprout new growth which should help speed up the plants initial growth.
As will all cuttings it’s best not to water them but instead to mist the foliage regularly in order to stop them from drying out. After a few weeks you should notice some new segments forming.
Christmas Cactus in Flower
Your cuttings will almost certainly wilt and flop over after a few days. Stick with it and keep misting and keep them in plenty of light. Hopefully after a few days the shock will pass and they’ll get down t sprouting roots.
Some people dip the segments in rooting powder or gel prior to planting however I don’t bother. Other people recommend leaving the cuttings in the open air prior to cutting in order for them to heal over, again I have never felt the need to do this.
Above is a cactus that came from a cutting back in September. It’s growth has been pretty slow, mainly due to me taking the cuttings at the end of the summer. Despite this you can see there are plenty of new shoots forming and hopefully i’ll have a nice healthy cactus by the time Christmas comes round.
The Ascaso Dream is one of the best looking home espresso machines out there. With it’s retro styling and solid build it is a good blend of style and functionality. In this post I’ll write about my experiences with the Ascaso, sharing a few tips and provide as honest review of the device as possible.
Feel free to ask any questions or leave your own tips at the bottom of this post.
Using the Ascaso Dream
The manual I got with my espresso machine was not really that clear – the translation from Spanish (where the machine is produced) is a bit hit and miss. After some research online and some experimentation here are the procedures I follow to pull a shot of espresso:
1. Switch on the machine (ideally 30 minutes prior to pulling the shot)
2. Run a little water through the empty filter to warm the pipes
3. Load the filter with coffee
4. Turn on the coffee switch for 25 seconds exactly
It is generally excepted that 25 seconds is the perfect time to brew an espresso, which is generally accepted as being 1 fluid oz (30 ml) in volume. As a general rule you’ll need about 8-10grams of coffee for a single shot.
Of course all machines (even of the same model) are different so you’ll have to experiment with different beans, grinds and amounts until you find what works with your particular setup.
Ascaso Dream Review
The first thing you’ll notice about the Ascaso is it’s great build quality. The aluminum casing feel solid and strong compared to many other consumer level espresso machines that are often cased in plastic.
The styling hasn’t been neglected in favour of build quality and alongside the Francis Francis this if probably the most stylish espresso machine out there with it’s retro look and curved lines. I particularly like the metal switches…
The machine is easy to use and comes with just the core features (no pointless bells and whistles) required to pull good quality espresso and make good cappuccinos.
After switching on the Dream is ready to go after about 1.5 minutes, though it’s best t give it 15 minutes to warm up if possible. The pump provides 16 bar of pressure, more than adequate to pull a good espresso with every grind you can throw at it.
The steam wand works very well and after a little practice i was able to produce good micro foam. I’m not yet able to do latte art but now i have a tool that will enable me to try…
Here’s a great video review I found from Seattle Coffee Gear which is worth a look:
Priming the Ascaso Dream
This is the process of filling the boiler . Heating up an empty boiler can seriously damage your machine so it is an important procedure to do. Ideally you should prime your espresso machine….
After using the machines steam function
If the machine has not been used for some time
If you’ve just refilled the water reservoir
Here is the procedure I use to prime my Ascaso Dream espresso machine:
1. Turn on the machine
2. Turn the steam tap on
3. Turn on the coffee switch
4. Allow water to run from steam wand for 5 seconds)
5. Turn off the coffee switch
6. Turn the steam tap off
Ascaso Dream Tips
If possible always switch the machine on 30 minutes before use in order to warm not just the boiler but parts like the portafilter
After pulling a shot of espresso run a little water through in order to clean the pipe from the boiler to filter
If possible use mineral or filtered water at all times. This will reduce the build up up of minerals, reducing the need to descale as regularly
Always descale the machine a minimum of quarterly, more regularly if you use it multiple times per day
Sometimes I’ve noticed that the espresso produced by the Ascaso is not as hot as I’d like. After doing a bit of research it seems this can be a fairly common problem with the Dream machine.
The main reason is that the boilers cycle operates between a set range. This means it heats the water to a pre-determined temperature then shuts down and the water is allowed to cool until it reaches a lower limit before it kicks in again. If you’re pulling a shot in between you’ll probably get a slightly cooler shot than the machine is capable of.
The first thing to do to get a hotter shot is to listen to the boiler. When you switch on the machine, or if you’ve left it on for a while (aim for 30 minutes) you should hear the boiler click on. Listen carefully and after a short time you’ll hear the boiler click off when the temperature reaches the thermostat’s higher limit. Try pulling a shot straight away and you should get improved results.
I saw another great tip on the excellent website coffee geek to try and get the boiler a bit hotter. Again wait for the boiler to switch off (when the water is at it’s hottest) then flick on the steam switch for a few seconds. This will add quite a bit of extra heat to the boiler which will enable the Ascaso to produce a much hotter shot. You may need to play around with the amount of time you put the steam switch on for as you may find the water is too hot.
How to Descale an Espresso Machine
Descaling an espresso machine is essential in order to keep it in great shape. I use Dezcal, a detergent free, citric acid based descaler, commonly available over the internet. If your machine has light use aim to do this at least every 3 months, more if you use your machine regularly or live in an area with soft water.
When descaling your machine always start with a cold machine. In total allow about 90 minutes to thoroughly descale the machine. Here are the exact steps i follow:
1. Fill the water reservoir 3/4 full of warm water (this helps dissolve the descaler faster)
2. Empty the descaler into the water reservoir and stir until fully dissolved
3. Switch on the machine
4. Turn on the coffee switch and run about 1/4 of a cup of water through the filter
5. Open up the steam knob, allowing 1/4 of a cup of water to run through the steam wand too
6. Turn off the coffee switch then switch off the machine and close the steam knob
7. You have now replaced the water in the boiler and pipes with the descaler water
8. Allow to sit for 20 minutes
9. Repeat the above process twice more until the water reservoir is almost empty.
10. Remove the water reservoir, rinse out and fill with clean water
11. Proceed to run the whole reservoir through both the filter and steam wand as before to clean the tank.
12. Refill the reservoir with water and repeat to ensure all of the descaler is removed from the boiler and pipes.
As you run water through the filter and steam wand while cleaning it is normal to see a bit of sludge and deposits come through into the cup. This is normal and shows the descaler is working well. Assuming you descale regularly you shouldn’t see any big deposits get flushed out.
If the machine has not been descaled regularly descaling might dislodge larger bits of scale which can occasionally block pipes when flushing through. If this does happen you may need to take the machine apart to try and find the blockage or take it to a repair center. In the [unlikely] scenario that this does happen don’t keep running the machine if it appears blocked as this can damage the pump.
Ascaso Dream Summary
Advantages
Great consistent crema
Ease of Use
Retro design
Full metal casing
Basic temperature gauge
Disadvantages
Not always hot espresso (see above workaround)
Temperature gauge is not very accurate/appropriately scaled
Supplied instructions are poorly translated to English!
Cost – it’s not the cheapest on the market!
All in all I am very pleased with the Ascaso Dream. It looks great in the kitchen (so the wife likes it!) and produces consistently good espresso. As with all espresso machines it takes a while to ‘learn’ your machine and perfect the results you get out. If you not interested in this element then you’re probably best off buying an automatic machine like a Nespresso.
If however you are interesting in becoming a home barista and learning to pull good espresso then I’d definitely recommend the Ascaso Dream.
Bare root roses are becoming increasingly popular. In this post we’ll discuss the benefits of bare root roses over potted varieties as well as proving some easy to follow instructions telling you how to plant them.
Below is the what a bare root rose looks like just after it arrived in the post.
Why Choose a Bare Root Rose?
Below are a few of the reasons I chose a bare root rose over a pot grown variety.
1. Variety. First of all by buying a bare root rose via the internet/post there is a much much bigger variety to choose from than if i went round my local nurseries. By buying a bare root online i was able to research all the varieties and order exactly the type I wanted.
2. Early Growth. Bare root roses are usually available in mid winter when the plants are dormant. By planting during this dormant period you allow the roots time to establish before the foliage growing season begins in the Spring. Consequently you get more first year growth from a bare root plant compared to a potted variety.
3. Cost. Because specialist growers can post bare root plants they can sell to a wider audience via mail order and the internet. As a result they can grow more plants, stock more varieties and sell each plant for less, all great news for the consumer.
How to Plant a Bare Root Rose
Pre soak. With bare root roses it is essential that the roots do not dry out prior to planting. As soon as you receive them soak the roots in a bucket of water, ideally over night
Location. First of all ensure that you’re planting your rose in an appropriate position. Some prefer more sun than other while some varieties are vulnerable top mildew so planting should be in the open to improve airflow.
Hole. Dig a nice big hole 12 to 18 inches deep and wide. If you planting against a wall ensure the hole is 6″ from the wall so as not to cramp the roots.
Soil Preparation. Roses are quite hungry feeders so make sure your soil is rich by adding well rotted compost. It is also a good idea to add a root growth powder (usually fungal based) like Mycorrhizal Fungi which add certain bacteria to the roots that promote vigorous growth. Apply such powders once the roots are in the hole allowing some of the powder to cover the roots as well as the surrounding soil, just like in the photo below.
Bare Root Rose Rooting Powder
Planting. Spread out the roots so they are flat to the bottom of the hole. This will provide the plant stability. The plant should be deep enough so that the bud union is just below the soil line. If planting against a wall it is a good idea to angle the stems slightly toward the wall to help training. Firm in the soil well.
Water and Mulch. Once planted be sure to water heavily, at least a couple of full watering cans. If the soil sinks with all the water then add some more. To help retain moisture around the plant build a small mound of mulch (compost or leaf mold) a couple of inches high.
After Care. Keep an eye on the weather and water if required. Keeping the roots moist really is crucial in the early growth stages until the roots are more established. You shouldn’t need to start feeding your rose until foliage starts to form in the Spring.
Varieties
You’ll soon realize there are hundreds of varieties to choose from when you start researching bare root roses. Be sure to take the time to research which rose is best for you. You’ll need to consider the following things when choosing a variety:
Amount of sun exposure of site
Growth space
Colour
Scent
Flowering: Once v Repeating
Disease resistance
Flower shape
The variety I am planting in this post is a Gertude Jekyll climber from the highly recommended David Austin Roses. It is a repeating flowerer so should bloom all summer long with a good fragrance. It’s reasonably disease resistant and vigorous in growth. More importantly it provides bright pink flowers which is the only colour my wife will entertain!
